Explore Japan’s Winter Traditions in Tokyo — From Irori Hearths to Modern Kotatsu Experiences

Japan has a number of winter traditions that provide warmth and comfort during the colder months. At the heart of these traditions is the "irori" – a sunken hearth used for centuries as the center of family life. Traditionally families gathered around irori to keep warm, cook rice, brew tea, grill fish or relax – a place to warm up and foster connections while enjoying slow living.

Today, the spirit of the irori survives in modern forms across Japan, especially through the beloved "kotatsu," a heated table covered with a thick quilt, inviting you to tuck your legs underneath, warm to the core and relax. Kotatsu are fairly common in Japanese homes, and a number of cafes and restaurants around Tokyo offer kotatsu to experience this winter.

While irori may be rare in modern urban settings, you can also experience this rustic way of communing, cooking and staying warm at irori-style open hearth restaurants. Tokyo offers a range of cozy, intimate escapes giving you the chance to experience both irori and kotatsu – quintessential Japanese winter comforts.

Irori Hearth Yakiniku Dining in Rustic Environs – Kagurazaka Irori Yakiniku Gion

Hidden in a quiet corner of the enigmatic Kagurazaka neighborhood, Kagurazaka Irori Yakiniku Gion offers refined irori hearth dining in central Tokyo. The Kagurazaka area is filled with enchanting narrow alleys, traditional buildings and elegant, understated charm – the ideal setting for a restaurant built around the timeless appeal of the irori hearth.

The restaurant is located in a former ryōtei (traditional Japanese fine-dining establishment) with over 80 years of history, which has been carefully renovated. This historical location combined with the traditional irori creates an unforgettable high-end Japanese yakiniku (barbeque) experience. The atmosphere has the contemplative calm of traditional Japanese interiors, yet everything feels thoughtfully updated for comfort, and the professional, warm staff are highly accommodating for international visitors.

Each table is centered around an irori hearth grill, where staff with deep knowledge of ingredients and heat control guide guests to the ideal grilling point, with organic produce and carefully sourced ingredients brought to their best expression over irori charcoal. The seasonal vegetable selection is especially memorable – crisp, sweet and deeply flavorful when lightly charred on top of hōba (magnolia leaves traditionally used in Japanese cuisine). Premium cuts of Wagyu beef, pork, chicken and seasonal fish are grilled to the side of the glowing coals using traditional cooking methods that produce a minimal amount of smoke. A diverse selection of complex, mouth-watering sauces round out the experience, making for a meal that is indulgent – especially if you dig into the excellent whisky or sake selection – but grounded in rustic simplicity.

Private rooms are available for pairs or small groups, making the restaurant ideal if you're looking for quiet, personal dining away from Tokyo’s crowded hotspots. If you want to experience Japan’s irori hearth culture this winter in an elegant, modern setting, Kagurazaka Irori Yakiniku Gion is one of the finest introductions you’ll find in the city.

An irori-style charcoal hearth grill

Cozy Kotatsu Terrace for Soba Lovers – Juwari Soba Iya-iya Gohai to Honke Kanoya

Juwari Soba Iya-iya Gohai To Honke Kanoya brings together two pleasures that define Japanese winters: buckwheat soba noodles and the warm comfort of kotatsu. Located just a 5-minute walk from JR Yoyogi Station, the restaurant features an enclosed terrace lined with individual kotatsu tables fitted with heating units and thick quilts, inviting you to slide underneath and relax as you dine. Traditional Japanese "hanten" – warm kimono-style coats – are also available for you to wear, adding to the traditional ambiance and making for great photo opportunities.

The restaurant specializes in juwari soba, noodles made exclusively from 100% buckwheat flour, without the use of wheat flour as a binder. The restaurant specializes in "juwari soba," meaning the noodles are crafted using 100% buckwheat flour. This results in a firm texture, a deep, nutty aroma, and the bold, authentic flavor of buckwheat itself. The restaurant’s name, Iya Iya Gohai, reflects the idea of saying, “No, no, I’m already full,” while still ending up enjoying five bowls because it is simply that good. Its simplicity allows the quality of the ingredients to shine through, making it a dish that offers a deeper appreciation of Japanese culinary culture.

The restaurant’s kotatsu has a cozy, home-like atmosphere reminiscent of the traditional kotatsu found in Japanese households. For first-time visitors, especially international travelers, it feels less like dining out and more like being welcomed into a Japanese friend’s home, offering an intimate glimpse into everyday Japanese life. As you slide your feet beneath the kotatsu quilt, your body naturally relaxes, wrapped in a warmth that evokes wintertime in Japan. The atmosphere is welcoming, making it an excellent stop whether you’re traveling solo or with companions.

Lunch or dinner at Juwari Soba Iya-iya Gohai To Honke Kanoya feels less like visiting a restaurant and more like discovering a small seasonal ritual. For your first kotatsu experience, this is a relaxed and accessible setting in Tokyo, where you can enjoy traditional soba noodle dishes at their best.

Experiencing Japanese culture through kotatsu, hanten coats, and soba

Luxurious Riverside Kotatsu Hideaway – ASAGE CAFE

Along the Sumida River quite near Asakusa, ASAGE CAFE offers kotatsu seating with an urban riverside twist. The cafe features an outdoor terrace that transforms into a seasonal kotatsu lounge each year from November to April. The kotatsu here are set outdoors in a modern chair-style arrangement, where guests sit on chairs and place their legs under a round table covered with a quilted blanket. This contemporary take on kotatsu feels fresh even to Japanese visitors, offering a stylish and modern way to enjoy the tradition. Settling under a kotatsu alongside the Sumida River against a crisp winter breeze is a certain Tokyo luxury.

Here the atmosphere changes beautifully throughout the day. Afternoon visits bring soft light over the water and a relaxed, cozy feel, while evenings offer a more atmospheric experience as the river reflects the city lights. Since the cafe is open until 10 PM, you can visit the kotatsu terrace for a late dessert, a warm drink or a casual evening gathering without feeling rushed. From the outdoor terrace, you can also enjoy views of Tokyo Skytree rising across the Sumida River.

ASAGE CAFE’s menu features matcha Basque cheesecake, a standout dessert that is creamy, aromatic and visually striking, while the rare Wagyu beef "katsu" (deep fried cutlet) is an indulgent savory option. Seasonal drinks, teas and thoughtfully prepared plates round out the menu, making it a great spot worth visiting even without the kotatsu.

On your trip to Tokyo, ASAGE CAFE offers a fun, memorable way to experience kotatsu culture in a contemporary setting. It’s relaxed, friendly and full of local flavor – a riverside retreat perfect for warming up during the colder winter months. Please note that kotatsu seating requires a small usage fee: 350 yen until 5 PM on weekdays, and 550 yen after 5 PM as well as on weekends and public holidays.

Tokyo Skytree rising across the Sumida River

Kagurazaka Irori Yakiniku Gion

Address	3-6-56 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku City, Tokyo
URL	Kagurazaka Irori Yakiniku Gion

Juwari Soba Iya-iya Gohai to Honke Kanoya

Address	NTT Docomo Annex 3F 5-24-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya City, Tokyo
URL	Juwari Soba Iya-iya Gohai to Honke Kanoya (JPN)

ASAGE CAFE

Address	2-1-5 Komagata, Taito City, Tokyo
URL	ASAGE CAFE

For updated information on opening hours, days closed, prices, and more, please check the official website.