300 years of the city told through Ukiyo-e
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Tokyo Then & Now – 300 years of the city told through Ukiyo-e
Experiencing history and cutting-edge culture at the same time is one of Tokyo’s great attractions. The city flourished with the beginning of the Edo Shogunate in the early 17th century. Since then, it has been shaped through the upheavals of history to emerge with a culture all its own. Throughout the metropolis, scenes from centuries past offer glimpses of the history that quietly lives on amid the futuristic skyscrapers.
Let’s see how the city’s scenery has changed from past to present through the lens of 17th to 19th century ukiyo-e paintings. Feel a sense of the Edo culture that has run through this city through the strides and tumult of history to the present day.
Nihonbashi Bridge, built as the Edo period began in 1603, became the point of origin for the Gokaido, or Edo Five Roads, that join Tokyo to the rest of Japan. These roads brought merchants and craftspeople from far and wide. Over the same period, the area also emerged as a key hub for water transportation, becoming a center of logistics and commerce. With fish markets along the river, the town flourished as a place to enjoy sushi and a variety of other delicacies. By the 18th century, Edo had grown massive with a population topping one million. The city came to symbolize the dynamism of the times.
The current stone bridge built in 1911 has been designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The expressway overhead was built in 1963. Work is currently in progress to move it underground, promising to dramatically change the scenery in 20 years’ time. Currently, the surrounding streets are lined with the head offices of major companies and longstanding prestigious department stores. Walk towards Tokyo Station, and you soon reach the financial district. Head in the direction of Ningyocho into retro downtown streets filled with artisans, or turn to Bakurocho to see the textile wholesale district. Among Tokyo’s many charms is the diversity of townscapes within a walk of less than 1 km.
Nihonbashi(GO TOKYO)
Kanda Myojin Shrine is said to have been founded in 730. As Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo shogunate, prayed for victory here before unifying the country, this shrine won official protection and the faith of the people as the “guardian deity of Edo.” This legendary spot has been the setting for a large number of ukiyo-e prints as the shrine building, lacquered in vermilion, conveys a sense of its illustrious past.
As one of the three major festivals of Edo, the Kanda Festival takes place every other year in May of odd-numbered years. In the Edo period, the festival procession of mikoshi portable shrines and floats would enter Edo Castle, watched by the Shogun family. Also called the “Tenka Matsuri,” this festival was officially recognized by the shogunate. Even today, it draws a lively crowd who come to pray for good fortune in business prosperity and romantic relationships. Located near Akihabara, Japan’s premiere electronics district and a hub of subculture, the shrine also features unique initiatives from awarding digital-related good-luck charms to collaborations with anime.
What's KANDAMYOUJIN?
Known as the oldest temple in Tokyo, Sensoji Temple was founded in 628. Having long been the heart of faith and dynamism in the downtown area, it holds many events throughout the year, including the Hozuki Market (July) and Hagoita Market (December). The main gate, Kaminarimon Gate, known for its giant hanging lantern, has also been a favorite subject of ukiyo-e as a symbol of tourism in Asakusa.
During the Edo period, Asakusa developed as a temple town, drawing not only countless shops, but also many theaters and sideshow tents. The district was full of energy with a strong entertainment culture and bustling commercial atmosphere. Building on its history as a lively area, a number of movie theaters sprang up from the early 1900s onward, shaping one of Tokyo’s most popular entertainment districts. The dynamism continues to this day, welcoming travelers from all corners of the globe.
ASAKUSA KANNON SENSOJI
The Great Fire of Meireki (1657), which destroyed more than 60% of Edo, caused massive damage. The Ryogoku area was newly developed as residential land during the reconstruction process. Within the grounds of Ekoin Temple, which was built to commemorate the victims, sumo wrestling events began to take place. With strong support from the public, it gradually evolved into the professional sport we know today. The restaurant complex “Ryogoku Edo NOREN” near Ryogoku Station features a full-sized sumo ring. Enjoy dining amid the culture and history of Edo.
Ekoin Temple (Japanese only)
Ryogoku Edo NOREN
The Sumida River flourished as a place to beat the heat, with seasonal boating and nighttime restaurants permitted only during summer. “Kawabiraki” (“the opening of the river”) came to signal the start of the season, a highly anticipated day for all. On the Kawabiraki day in 1733, fireworks were launched to commemorate the dead and ward off illnesses, and the tradition has since become a seasonal event. The event has been passed down through the years and is now one of Tokyo’s largest and most anticipated, known as the Sumida River Fireworks Festival, this tremendous event has come to symbolize the city (scheduled this year for July 26). Just as in the time of Edo, many also enjoy the fireworks from yakatabune (traditional pleasure boats).
Among the five roads from Nihonbashi that connects Tokyo with various parts of Japan, the Tokaido, which runs along the Pacific Ocean to join Tokyo and Kyoto, became the most heavily traveled of them all. A huge wooden gate was built in Takanawa along the Tokaido to help maintain public order, control traffic and serve as the “Entrance to Edo.”
The first railway in Japan opened along the Tokaido in 1872. In Takanawa, which was then part of the coastline, the tracks were laid on newly reclaimed land. This site where Japan’s first railway ran over the sea became known as the “Land of Innovation,” the nexus of Japanese and Western technology. In March 2025, the new town of Takanawa Gateway City opened here. Featuring state-of-the-art technology, this area is highly expected to become a new landmark of Tokyo.
TOKYO NOW No.169
Today, the streets of Meguro are lined with buildings, but in the Edo period, it was a farming area. The shogunate carefully protected Meguro Fudoson, the sacred temple said to have been founded in 808, which led to the development of a lively temple town. Visitors of the time were delighted to see Mt. Fuji from the hilltops, and take a stroll beneath the cherry blossoms along the Meguro River in spring.
Today, 800 cherry trees line a stretch of the Meguro River for about 4 km, making it one of the most iconic cherry blossom spots in Tokyo. These were planted by local residents during the riverbank construction work that was carried out in the 20th century. Cherry blossom viewing is a spring tradition loved by people of all ages, both now and in the past.
Nakameguro (GO TOKYO)
Let’s see how the city’s scenery has changed from past to present through the lens of 17th to 19th century ukiyo-e paintings. Feel a sense of the Edo culture that has run through this city through the strides and tumult of history to the present day.
Nihonbashi





The current stone bridge built in 1911 has been designated as a National Important Cultural Property. The expressway overhead was built in 1963. Work is currently in progress to move it underground, promising to dramatically change the scenery in 20 years’ time. Currently, the surrounding streets are lined with the head offices of major companies and longstanding prestigious department stores. Walk towards Tokyo Station, and you soon reach the financial district. Head in the direction of Ningyocho into retro downtown streets filled with artisans, or turn to Bakurocho to see the textile wholesale district. Among Tokyo’s many charms is the diversity of townscapes within a walk of less than 1 km.
Nihonbashi(GO TOKYO)
Kanda Myojin Shrine





What's KANDAMYOUJIN?
Sensoji Temple






During the Edo period, Asakusa developed as a temple town, drawing not only countless shops, but also many theaters and sideshow tents. The district was full of energy with a strong entertainment culture and bustling commercial atmosphere. Building on its history as a lively area, a number of movie theaters sprang up from the early 1900s onward, shaping one of Tokyo’s most popular entertainment districts. The dynamism continues to this day, welcoming travelers from all corners of the globe.
ASAKUSA KANNON SENSOJI
Ryogoku




Ekoin Temple (Japanese only)
Ryogoku Edo NOREN



Takanawa




The first railway in Japan opened along the Tokaido in 1872. In Takanawa, which was then part of the coastline, the tracks were laid on newly reclaimed land. This site where Japan’s first railway ran over the sea became known as the “Land of Innovation,” the nexus of Japanese and Western technology. In March 2025, the new town of Takanawa Gateway City opened here. Featuring state-of-the-art technology, this area is highly expected to become a new landmark of Tokyo.
TOKYO NOW No.169
Meguro River Cherry Blossoms





Today, 800 cherry trees line a stretch of the Meguro River for about 4 km, making it one of the most iconic cherry blossom spots in Tokyo. These were planted by local residents during the riverbank construction work that was carried out in the 20th century. Cherry blossom viewing is a spring tradition loved by people of all ages, both now and in the past.
Nakameguro (GO TOKYO)
Notice: Information as of April 2025.